We left Guerrero Negro midday. The road less traveled or more traveled in our case was Highway 1;the only highway in the Peninsula. Very tight quarters means you have to stay alert since you are sharing the road with semi-trucks. Literallly, you are inches apart from one another when you pass eachother in opposing directions.
Eleazar stands upon a mound of chocolata clams and Lion's Hand scallop shells.
On our way out of Guerrero Negro, we stopped on the remnants of a now defunct scallop and clam schucking operation. The once bustling business employed over 3,000 people, but overharvesting of the resource led the federal government to impose severe restrictions on the species, to ensure its preservation for future generations. This same lagoon is the calving grounds for the whales and also where the second largest salt plant operates. It is half owned by the federal government and Mitsubishi.
A salt barge on the way to Isla Cedros. These barges carry a load of about 10,000 tons every three hours 24 hours per day. The salt is taken to Isla Cedros, where it is exported all over the world.
A house? a church? think again, a crypt the size of a small apartment. Outside of Guerrero Negro, this cemetery looks like a small subdivision of homes. There appears to be a strong sense of building bigger and bigger crypts to venerate the dead. Some crypts are better than homes currently being occupied in Guerrero Negro.
We are over 650 miles from the California-Mexico Border out in the middle of the Baja Desert....
We arrived at the quaint Hotel Verduzco in Bahia Asuncion, a town of about 3,000 people. Note the gigantic whale jawbone, which serves as a gate. It took two of us to drag it out of the way. As we arrived, the town was mourning a death in the community. They closed several streets and canceled all celebrations. In fact, there was a circus in town and they too canceled their show out of respect for the community. What used to take 4 hours to reach via a dirt road, can now be reached via a newly paved road in 1.5 hours. Bahia Asuncion is known for its world class abalone and lobster exports to the far east.
We awoke to a bank of fog and mist and a delayed sunrise on the beach in Bahia Asuncion.... ready to go after the fish of the day.
The mini-panga that was originally intended for us, did not work!!! We opted for a bigger boat.
On the beach with the "Beast", my 1989 Bronco XLT and the appropiate size panga. As if it were a gift from heaven, my neighbors had the Bronco stored in their garage for 21 years. After several years insisting my neighbors, they conceded to sell us the Bronco. With a mere 21,000 miles on its engine, I took it on a road trip that only in my dreams I was able to envision. The "Beast" as we christened it, has performed immaculately. Thanks to Tom and Pearl for selling Blanca and I the Bronco. We hope to have it for many more years and make many memories with our family and friends.
Carlos showing off his limited angling skills, along with first mate Julio, a Bahia Asuncion native. The first yellowtail for our sashimi. Bahia Asuncion is known as the Yellowtail capitol of the world. Long range angling boats from San Diego come to Asuncion for non-stop Yellowtail action. We anchored several miles off the coast to fish, but the Gods of the waves got to us. Both Carlos and I, visited the side of the panga to pay tribute to the God of the Swells. Contrary to popular rumors, we reccomend Dramamine or some type of motion sickness medicine before embarking on a Pacific Coast panga adventure.
The catch of the day included Yellowtail and Bonito, but no elusive Grouper. We were astounded at the brute force of these fish when they struck our lures, most of which lost their glamour after being bitten so many times. So much for high quality paint jobs on lures.
Julio making sushi grade ceviche- a mixture of onion, serrano pepper, lime juice, bottled hot sauce and soy sauce. An unbelievable taste nowhere near fish! Bahia Asuncion is beginning to produce and market Bonito burgers; high in protein, low in cholesterol and high in Omega 3. We were astounded by the Bonito's taste and texture.
At the end of the day, having dinner at se
ñora Yolanda's local restuarant seaside; three tables, eight chairs, a hammock and non-matching silverware. The menu changes daily, since the fresh catch of the day is what dictates what will land on the grill. Today was grouper meatballs in a seafood vegetable broth, with a side of rice and beans and handmade flour tortillas. Food Network? No Reservations with Anthony Bourdain? nowhere to be seen. This cuisine is the true Mexico few are priviledged to see.
Early morning coffee at Se
ñora Yolanda's. No Starbucks in sight...thank goodness. Our Captain Victor, a lifetime Asuncion resident and fisherman since he was 8 years old is ready to roll out into the Pacific for a day on the battlefield.
At Yolanda's taking a break and holding up a scallop shell.
Another Yellowtail at the underwater rock called "La Gringa". We were after giant Grouper and Seabass, but struckout. We had a seal steal our bait and for a minute we thought we had hooked a giant seabass. Bummer!!!
Our guide Domingo was an excellent captain and sashimi chef.
We had playful seal pups surrounding us, intrigued by our presence, they chased our panga.
Carlos making fresh salsa for an abalone feast.
Preparing the abalone "La Paz' style.
Fresh abalone from Punta Abreojos.
We drove all night from Punta Abreojos and arrived at 4 AM to La Paz. After a short snooze, we decided to make a Yellowtail sashimi tostada.
A feast for a king.... The freshest sashimi we have ever eaten.
Abalone ceviche-Cooked until tender, lime juice, jalape
ños, purple onion, salt and pepper and for an extra kick, crushed dried piquin pepper, all served on a crispy tostada!!!!!! McCormick and who??????
We are off to meet Eleazar's friends; the lobsters. We are getting hungry for dinner!!!
